Many women around the world regularly use skin lightening creams. Some want to fade the dark spots that often appear with age, while others seek a fairer complexion.

A large number of the products they use are based upon hydroquinone, a chemical that was accidentally discovered in the U.S. during the second World War and has proven to be the most effective skin lightener yet developed. However, synthetic hydroquinone has been identified as a carcinogen, with ongoing usage linked to increased risk of cancer. After high large numbers of African women who had used 10% hydroquinone developed various forms of cancer, countries around the world began limiting usage of hydroquinone. France has taken a particularly aggressive stance, banning all hydroquinone products. In the U.S., though, many products containing 2% hydroquinone are sold over-the-counter (OTC) while 4% products are still available by prescription.

To provide a safer solution to skin lightening, some manufacturers have introduced products containing alternative skin lightening agents such as bearberry and grapefruit
extracts. Paul Penders' Aqualuna skin lightener contains both of these natural skin lighteners.

Bearberry is an evergreen shrub found in underwoods and rocks throughout Europe, America and Asia. Its leaves contain 5% to 15% arbutin, which is a natural derivative of hydroquinone but is more stable and less aggressive. Arbutin is therefore gentler to the skin, provoking neither irritation nor sensitization. Importantly, it has not been linked to cancer. When used regularly on a daily basis, arbutin can reduce the melanin that causes skin discolorations. However, by competing with certain enzymes and inhibiting the chain of tyrosine oxidations by tyrosinase, arbutin can also prevent the formation of new pigment in the skin. This can be both a blessing and a curse, preventing the formation of new discolorations but also potentially causing an over-lightening effect if it is used too frequently.

Grapefruit extract, which is rich in citric and malic acids, is an excellent astringent and antiseptic. It is often used for products designed to address oily skin. The exfoliant effect of grapefruit extract removes dead skin cells, and thereby also helps to reduce surface pigmentation irregularities.

Other natural ingredients may also be added to skin lightening preparations to balance the effects of the lightening agents. For example, rice extract may be used to smooth and moisturize the skin, offsetting the drying effects of grapefruit extract. Rice contains oligosaccharides, carbohydrates that have been shown to retain moisture and help hydrate the skin.

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