Containing water, oils, peptides and carbohydrates, cosmetics can easily become contaminated with bacteria, viruses and fungi that can spoil the product. Because of this, manufacturers must use preservatives to keep products from spoiling and extend shelf life. Natural products, such as those containing olive or coconut oils, are particularly prone to becoming rancid if preservatives are not added.

Although petrochemical-based parabens very effectively kill unwanted bacteria and keep skin care products fresh, many have also been linked to cancer. Unfortunately, they’re still commonly used in skin care and cosmetic products because they’re relatively cheap.

According to “Preservatives for Cosmetics” by David Steinberg, methylparaben was used in more than 7,100 products sold in the U.S. in 2003, while propylparaben was found in over 5,800 products, butylparaben was included in more than 2,300 products and other types of paraben, such as ethylparaben, isobutylparaben and isopropylparaben, were found in more than 1,900. Overall, the usage of these preservatives has remained relatively constant since 1996, with declines in usage of one paraben offset by increases in usage of
another.

In 2004, a study reported in the Journal of Applied Toxicology found parabens in samples of breast tumors, indicating a link between these chemicals and breast cancer. While no direct causal relationship has yet been established between parabens and cancer, many researchers believe that heavy usage of antiperspirants and other products containing parabens will eventually be considered a risk factor for cancer.

Formaldehyde, which can be toxic, allergenic, and carcinogenic, is also used as a preservative in cosmetics, as it is also quite inexpensive. However, it is used considerably less often than parabens. In 2003, 139 U.S. skin care products contained formaldehyde, according to Steinberg, compared with 187 in 1996.

Manufacturers are able to keep using these ingredients because cosmetics are not uniformly regulated throughout the world. In the U.S., for example, the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) does not require safety or efficacy testing for preservatives, although it does restrict or prohibit certain ingredients. Hexachlorophene, mercury compounds, bithionol and halogenated saliclanilides are currently not allowed. The EU pre-approves preservatives, with 56 permitted preservatives. Many other countries including Japan have followed the regulatory framework of the EU with “positive” lists for permitted preservatives.

Manufacturers of natural and organic products use non-petroleum-based products such as phenoxyethanol. A colorless glycol ether, phenoxyethanol is an organic compound that has been shown to effectively kill bacteria. It is increasingly used in skin creams, perfumes and insect repellants as well as vaccines. For example, organic product manufacturer Paul Penders uses phenoxyethanol in all of its skin care, hair care, body care and make up products as a safer, albeit somewhat more expensive, alternative to parabens.

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