The boat leaves its anchorage in Ammoudi/ Oia and starts a trip full of pictures, imaginations, fragrances, experiences. It does not even take 20 minutes to arrive at the port of Thirasia, Riva. The regular ferryboats from Athinios and Piraeus and the small boats coming from Ammoudi dock here. In the 13th century the ships of the Venetian sea-conqueror Markos Sanoudos landed here, who annexed the islands Thira and Thirasia for the Aegean Principality of Naxos. The little church of Saint Irene (Latin Santa Irini), what can be seen high on top above the port Riva, gave its name not only to the settlement but to the whole island.
Walking along the beach passing picturesque fish-restaurants and places where fishing boats are moored, we reach the black beach with crystal waters. This place was chosen for the "Blue flag".
By local bus or taxi we follow the main road to get to the center of the island. Hikers will find many alternative ways to get to the settlements by choosing small field paths.
A light refreshing breeze is blowing, full of fine fragrances of thyme, savory and oregano. One extensive original vineyard is covering the terraces hold by loose stone walls. The vines are jumping out of the infertile volcanic ground. The tendrils are wound like a wheel, the so called "kouloures':
They hold the grapes to protect them from the very strong winds. The foliage is gatheering even the smallest trace of humidity, which is needed for the development of the plant, and is protecting it from the burning Cycladic sun.
The first inhabited settlement on our way is Potamos and appears suddenly, built in a gorge that gave it its name. Most of the houses are traditional caves with their courtyards full with red geranium and bougainvillea. The center of the village is dominated by the two churches Agios Dimitrios and Panagia i Giatrissa.
Southwestern In the gorge Agrilia is waiting for us, the biggest and oldest rural settlement of the island. Only locals know the right way to get there. The invisible settlement with its traditional caves and its wine cellars, so perfectly adapted to the environment, appears suddenly. A sleepless guardian is the church Panagia ton Eisodion (tou lagadiou) rooted at the entrance of Agrilia. It was built in 1887 and differs because of its special architecture.
Returning to the main road we keep on going up to the capital of the island, Manola, lying on the very top of the Caldera of Thirasia. The view on Santorini and the endless blue are catching the eye. The splendid cathedral Agios Konstantinos, built in 1874, welcomes us.
Walking in the small alleys with cobblestones inevitably we return to the past. The smell of fresh bread leads us to the traditional bakery with wood-fired oven near to the grammar school. A bit further we find the general shop of Mr. Manolis with all kinds of articles waiting in wooden cupboards.
South-eastern from Manola, the settlement Kera or Keradiana, as the locals call it, was inhabited 30 - 40 years ago. It is standing high on the rock to give us an unforgettable breath-taking panoramic view on the volcanic islands (Kamenes).
To go to the old port Korfos the bravest will take a ride on one of the very nice mules following 270 paved steps down to the windless port. Sailing boats and fishing cutters are docking here daily, taking trips from Athinios to the volcano, the hot springs and Thirasia.
The fishing boats arrive full with fresh fish. You can try it immediately together with local dishes in one of the little restaurants with colourful tablecloths in front of the water.
The colours of sunset are painting sky and sea...
There are much more experiences waiting for us tomorrow at “Thirasia of fragrances…”
There is a total number of 21 little churches and chapels on rocks and in gorges, which have been dedicated to the saints to protect sailors on their journeys far from home. Every holiday in a church is joined by the whole island to follow the mass and to summon "devoutness" from it.

Aghios Haralambos in Manola 10th February Aghia Irini in Riva 5th May
Aghios Konstantinos and Aghia Eleni in Manola 21st May
Analipsi tou Kiriou in Manola Movable holiday (40 days after Easter) Aghios Ioannis in Manola 24th June (Birthday ofjohn the Baptist)
Aghia Kiriaki in Manola 7th July
Profitis Elias in Kera 20th July
Aghia Irini Chrisobaladou in Manola 28th July Metamorfosi tou Sotiros in Agrilia 6th August Panaghia i Tripiti in Kera 15th August (Assumption)
Aghios Ioannis in Potamos 29th August (beheading of the John the Baptist) Panaghia i Ghiatrissa in Potamos 22nd September
Aghios Dimitrios in Potamos 26th October
Panaghia ton Eisodion (tou lagadiou) in Agrilia 21st November Aghios Nikolaos in Korfo 6th December
Aghios Spiridonas in Potamos 12th December

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